Lessons from La Plagne
Having spent an amazing 10 days with the kids at Chalet le Col over New Year we had been looking forward to some parent-only time in the mountains for our next visit. It didn’t disappoint!
A short 5 day break was just what the doctor ordered after a crazy few months, and three full days of skiing in unseasonably nice weather allowed us to really explore the vast La Plagne ski area and learn some really interesting lessons along the way.
LESSON ONE: THE BLUE RUN TO THE ENVERS LIFT IS THE WORST RUN OF THE DAY
Let’s get the bad out of the way first! To access the main bowls of La Plagne and Belle Plagne requires a quick gondola up from Montalbert followed by ride on the Envers lift to Aime 2000. There is a reasonably short run ‘Adrets’ between the two lifts that is blue with a red option on the final 300 meters. However, as it’s the main connection it quickly gets tracked out in the morning leaving it bumpy and icy. It can be a challenge, especially on the first day when those legs are still cold, but for those who embrace the challenge a winter wonderland awaits making it more than worthwhile! (Pro tip: take the ‘Grenouilles’ red run from next to le 360 to avoid this busy area!)
LESSON TWO: IF YOU LIKE PEACEFUL SLOPES, STAY AROUND MONTALBERT
The runs around La Plagne offer a range of pistes for all abilities plus snow parks, luge runs, high peaks, amazing restaurants,a fast modern lift system and everything else you’d expect of a world class ski area.
But for that feeling of pure tranquility, peace and like you’re the only person on the mountain then stay close to home on the pistes above Montalbert. There’s some beautiful tree-lined runs and cruisy blues, as well as the Cool Ski run with gentle slopes and hidden goblins for kids and beginners.
Whats more, when we arrived there hadn’t been any fresh snow for a month – since our last visit in fact – but the north facing orientation keeps the sun and subsequent snow melt at bay, resulting in some of the best snow conditions in the entire region.
LESSON THREE: WHEN THE WEATHER IS WARM, STAY HIGH
The main La Plagne area is a fantastic sun trap – hence the name of one of the villages “Plagne Soleil”! For most of winter the cold temperatures and altitude outweigh the power of the sun, but if the temperatures start to rise then our best tip is to head high! Bellecôte at 3000m, Roche de Mio at 2739m, Grand Rochette at 2508, Les Verdons 2500m and Col de Forcle at 2270m offer high alpine experiences with incredible snow conditions all season long (plus some breathtaking views).
LESSON FOUR: DON’T BE AFRAID OF ALTITUDE OR RED RUNS
When I told Kate we were going to take the new €26 million Glaciers lift to ski the red runs on the Bellecote Glacier I could see the colour drain from her face as fear took over. But after a morning of playing around on long, gentle, quiet slopes she declared that there was nothing to worry about and that it was one of her best days skiing, ever!!!
LESSON FIVE: SATURDAY IS THE QUIET DAY
As one of the best known ski areas in the world famous Tarentaise Valley, the main ski area above Plagne Centre can be busy; certainly so in peak season. However, Saturday is changeover day where guests checkout/depart, new ones arrive and seasonaires are busy turning around accommodation for new guests. As a result the vast playground remains empty.
Chalet le Col is unique in not enforcing the traditional Saturday – Saturday check in/check out, so maybe consider staying on different days to make the most of Sublime Saturday’s!
LESSON SIX: FOOD IS GREAT, BUT UNION IS NEXT LEVEL
We’re in France so we wouldn’t expect anything less than locally sourced, lovingly prepared food and great value, incredible drinks. Elsewhere on this website you’ll hear about some of our favourite restaurants: Les 2 Zebras, La Luge and La Tourmente.
But on this trip we visited Union for the first time. This local gem is co-owned by chef Philip Howard, who during his 25 years as chef/owner of The Square in London held two Michelin stars for 17 years. After its sale in 2016, Phil opened Elystan Street, which quickly established itself as one of London’s top restaurants – earning a Michelin star in its first year.
Phil’s cooking has received long-standing critical acclaim. It is highly seasonal cooking using only the finest ingredients and delivers its pleasure through harmony of flavour rather than innovation or technical wizardry. This philosophy is very much centre stage at Union where the focus is on delivering simple, delicious and soul-nourishing food.
The menu and the experience is truly next level and a must-visit for foodies staying in the village.
LESSON SEVEN: THE DEEP NATURE SPA DO GREAT MASSAGES
Unfortunately Montalbert doesn’t have its own spa and swimming complex (yet), but a short 10 minute drive down into the valley and 20 minute drive back up to Belle Plagne brings you to the Deep Nature spa.
We visited after a full day of skiing having pre-booked an hour in the premium spa followed by 45 minute full body massages. The spa consisted of two relatively shallow but hot outdoor pools, two large hot tubs, barrel saunas, indoor Nordic saunas, ice buckets, steam room/hamam and relaxation rooms. Upstairs are the private treatment areas and the massages were one of the best we’ve ever had – they were the perfect way to soothe our aching muscles after three truly epic days of skiing.
With guests staying throughout February we look forward to our next trip with the kids in March knowing that the lessons we learned on this trip will ensure they can truly explore the mountains with us.